From: Bill Morrow (penzance_at_gate.net)
Date: Fri Sep 07 2001 - 01:38:35 EDT
most thinkpad cases are carbon fiber..
acetone won't melt and thus bond these materials..
acetone is a solvent that is used as glue and as part of glue for model
assembly..
there are other glues that might do the same sort of job..
the PVC type glues i have not tried for anything BUT PVC pipes..
thinkpad cases, when i have seen them break, usually break without
deforming..
thus two part epoxy glues should work..
especially if some glass or other fiber can be used on the back side to
create some substance that will strengthen the part..
i'm not sure what the keyboard bezels are made of..
Cordially, :-)
Bill Morrow
WEB page http://thinkpads.com
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E-Mail: bill at thinkpads dot com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Mindy" <jackmndy_at_frontiernet.net>
To: <thinkpad_at_cs.utk.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 3:03 PM
Subject: Glue for broken cases
> A few suggestions for those who've had their case crack. Not being in this
> situation myself, I don't know exactly what manner of crack it is. Many
> plastics bend a bit first (stretch), before breaking. In that case, the
> parts don't mate very well afterward -- there's a bit of a curve to the
> mating surfaces; not a clean break. The end result is that you now have a
> piece of plastic that is bigger (longer) than it was originally. Thus
> filling in a crack that only goes part-way is going to put stress on the
> remainder of that piece along the same "fault-line".
>
> A two-part epoxy fills in the gap once either or both pieces has been
> distorted. If you do decide to fill in a gap, "JB Weld", a two-part
> epoxy-type product is unbelievable stuff. Color is medium gray when dry.
> Any hardware store has it. It has yet to fail me.
>
> As someone has already suggested, the glue used by plumbers to connect
PVC,
> CPVC and ABS pipe might be a more desireable remedy, if only because it
> doesn't leave an obvious lump of a different color. This type of glue
> causes the plastic surfaces to swell and weld together. But be aware that
> this stuff gives you about five seconds position the pieces before
> everything is solidifed. The fumes are pretty awful. The can it comes in
> has a dauber built into the cap, but you'll probably want to use something
> (non-plastic) smaller. It's rather thick, goopy stuff.
>
> Allow me to suggest another possibility that may or may not work. Many of
> us have learned from experience that "superglue" usually doesn't work on
> plastics. However, liguid styrene glue works very well on many plastics by
> melting and welding the surfaces, much like the plumber's glue. This
stuff,
> a thin, clear liquid, comes in a 1 or 2 oz. bottle with a small brush in
> the cap. It's usually found only at serious model railroad shoppes (not
toy
> stores). It might be good if someone tried styrene glue first, since it's
> the least "invasive". To test, just dab a drop on an unobtrusive spot and
> touch it with your finger. If you leave your fingerprint in the plastic,
it
> might do the job.
>
>
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