From: Bert Haskins (bhaskins_at_triton.net)
Date: Wed Dec 12 2001 - 10:42:29 EST
I've really enjoyed this thread.
Now does anyone know where to get NIMH cells
like those used in say, a 760 battery?
They are fatter and shorter than regular AAs.
1.660 x .655 as compared to 1.970 x .550.
I've tried many companies on the web with no luck.
Thanks, Bert
Alan King wrote:
> "Cottrell, Eric" wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > One little inovation they have is batteries with tabs on them. You can
> > carefully solder to the tabs.
>
> This is totally useless information, you do see that the link you gave
> is AA batteries? How many laptop batteries use an actual AA battery
> inside? The whole purpose in my telling how to solder to the terminals
> is because it's difficult to even find the right batteries, and most
> often they are not available with tabs, since they're often only made
> for mass manufacture and are spot welded by the OEMs.
>
> > This is the only recommended method for soldering batteries. It is possible
> > to rupture the safety
> > value on the battery (causing them to leak) if heat is applied directly to
> > the positive cap.
>
> Which is precisely why I told how to do it with acid flux and not heat
> up the battery.
>
> >
> > http://thomas-distributing.com/mh-dba-1700tab.htm
> >
> > I have also seen Ni-MH D size cells that are not like those Radio Shack C
> > cells in D clothing.
> > Maha/Powerex have 8 AH batteries in a D size. The C cells are 3.8 AH
> > compared to RS C
> > and D cells being 2.2 AH. I would not solder to these cells however.
>
> Well then don't, but don't regurgitate the useless information you've
> read. That's fine if you want to live a simple little life and follow
> all the rules to the letter, go buy a $150 battery pack, or better yet
> send me $150 and I'll do the work for you since you're afraid to try
> things for yourself. But no matter how many references you can site, I
> can site 10 years plus of actually doing it that says you and your
> references are wrong for anyone with a little sense and know how. The
> ONLY reason I mentioned the C in a D type is for anyone who was overly
> concerned to try on one that isn't in direct contact with the cell
> first, to see how well it solders to the terminal material with so
> little heat. If you're not going to try it and put your 'knowledge' to
> the test before blessing others with your wisdom, then it's worthless in
> the first place. And if you do, you'll see just how far off of actual
> reality what you know is. It isn't just easy, it's pathetically easy
> for anyone who's technically inclined and knows how to solder. It only
> takes doing a few to realize that the 'you can't solder to batteries'
> junk is largely legal crap to absolve the manufacturers of any
> liability. And I clearly said that what I was detailing goes against
> conventional 'wisdom', or lack of it, so what was the point of a post
> saying how you'd only do things that follow those rules?
>
> > If you look in the commercial battery arena you can find batteries with tabs
> > and some makers even
> > have multi-cell packs.
>
> And they don't have a thing in the world to do with with what we're
> talking about, since they're not going to match the batteries inside a
> laptop battery pack, so are totally useless for our purposes..
>
> Alan
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