Re: [Thinkpad] OT: Deathstar recovery (was: OT: data recovery)

The safest, lowest cost way is that described below... place the drive in
another working desktop computer jumpered as slave, with the primary drive
jumpered as Master. The Deskstar should be cooed to 40 degrees for best
result.

If it will turn, and if you are prepared to drag the files and folders to
the working drive, this will usually work best. Sometimes a very large, high
speed Flash Drive receives the folders most rapidly. Be sure to have a
large enough master and flash drive to finish the work, as you may not get a
second opportunity.

Ray

On 10/5/06, A. Kellerbauer <a.kellerbauer@cern.ch> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know how to extract some data from a Hitachi Deskstar (aka
> Deathstar) that has failed by way of "Click of Death"?
>
> Alban
>
> > Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 13:35:41 -0700
> > From: RayBay <canyonlands@gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Thinkpad] OT: data recovery (was: Re: FS: TP Memory)
> > To: "Alex Austin" <circuitsoft.alex@gmail.com>
> > Cc: thinkpad@stderr.org, Aryeh Goretsky <goretsky@gmail.com>, Donald
> > MacQueen <dmacq@erols.com>
> > Message-ID:
> > <69363c910610041335x1e897936m2cf42493e9fe8cb1@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> >
> > Those work. We have offered a service to rescue data frombad hard drives
> > since 1997 and rescue or partially rescue an average of 2 to 5 a
> week. Most
> > are desktop drives, but the procedure we find works best is the same.
> >
> > What works best, most reliably and completely with laptop drives is to
> buy a
> > the gadget widely available from Geeks.com, Outpost, Frys, CyberGuys,
> and
> > tohers, that allows the installation of a laptop drive in a desktop
> > computer. It sells under different names, but is usually something
> like
> > "Hard Drive Adapter" with the long name, "Notebook hard drive to Desktop
> > Adapter 2.5" to 3.5". It sells for $1.75 to $8.95 depending on where
> you
> > go. www.geeks.com has them for $4.95 plus shipping. These are not
> fancy...
> > a rack, a cable, and a raw socket at the end of the wire, along with a
> power
> > socket that the desktop power supply can fit.
> >
> > Mount the defective drive in a desktop computer with extra bays... as a
> > slave.
> >
> > You do freeze the drive overnight, but then let it return to
> refrigerator
> > temperature - about 40 degrees before you try this. Be ready as
> sometimes
> > you only get one chance. Keep the drive rotating once you start. Do not
> > shut down. Check all your jumpers for master and slave before hand.
> >
> > The extra power available from the desktop power plug seems to help get
> the
> > bad drive going and keeps it going.
> >
> > Once the drive is rotating, you can use drag and drop techniques to move
> all
> > the critical data to the desktop drive. From there you can burn the data
> to
> > a CD or copy to a flash drive. Do not stop until done as you may never
> get
> > another opportunity.
> >
> > This is much more successful than a USB external, probably due to the
> better
> > regulation of power
> >
> > We can usually make this work... at least 85 percent of the time,
> sometimes
> > by tapping the drive lightly with a padded pencil. Some drives have
> class
> > plates have shattered so of course nothing can be rescued there. Others
> have
> > magnetic material on plastic plates... The leading and trailing edge
> have
> > material that has bubbled up and flaked off... so no data is found
> there,
> > but you can find amazing numbers of the files you need.
> >
> > Other drives that have "frozen" due to bad bearings are enabled to
> rotate by
> > the freezing and cold, but they will freeze up again if run too long or
> if
> > the drive is turned off. Usually they will never turn again. n Do not
> allow
> > the drive to get too warm. We spray ours with canned air periodically
> which
> > frosts them up pretty well.
> >
> > RayBay
>
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                                   Cicero, 43 BC
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